Wednesday, February 28, 2018

The Flu

I am sorry but I came home from Detroit with the flu and February is gone.

I have some pictures to show you, though.

Chris took what he learned about layering card stock and made some Out of This World miniature furniture.  Take a look . . . .

Wow!  He took "Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better"  to a whole new level.


Wednesday, January 10, 2018

1 INCH SCALE VINTAGE MEDICINE CABINET - How to make a vintage medicine cabinet for your dollhouse from mat board.


This is a picture of my medicine cabinet from the bathroom room box I made a number of years ago.

It is a copy of one I actually have in my basement bathroom.  My husband was a remodeler when he first started his business.  He was also beginning to build what became our home.  Al  finished off the basement first.  Sometimes homeowners he was remodeling for offered odds and ends that they were not keeping, Al would bring them home and put them back to use.  The medicine cabinet is one of these odds and ends.

The original was painted a horrid green, really and has some etching at the top of the mirror.  I tried to replicate that with white paint on my first miniature of it.

This is the second miniature, the one I will be showing how to make.

Here are my drawings and measurements.  Sometimes you have to change measurements when making a miniature.  The full-size medicine cabinet was so small that I enlarged it's measurements so that I could make it.

You can change the measurements to fit your needs, too.

You will be tracing Nancy's patterns.  Keep your pencil sharp to make a narrow line around the patterns.  Cut the patterns out on your drawn line.

These are Nancy's beautiful patterns.  I would print them out onto card stock for tracing.  At the left of the blog in the "Things to do, Things to see" list there are instructions for RE-SIZING THE PATTERNS.

Nancy sent us a second pattern sheet for those of you that have the digital desk top cutters or scrap book cutter machines.  This pattern has the mirror frame or you can copy the sheet onto card stock and use the 1/16 inch wide strips for your frame.  Thank you Nancy for thinking of this!

I am using yellow wood glue for the entire tutorial.  This glue dries hard, not flexible like tacky glue.  I don't want these joints to be flexible.

Trace around the patterns onto 1 layer of mat board and cut out a back and the top and bottom pieces.

Glue the top and bottom to the long edges of the back.

I am gluing to the edge of the back, look closely at the picture.

I am not gluing the top and bottom onto the surface of the back.

The top and bottom are on.

Measure and mark as in the picture 5/8" in from each side.

Trace and cut out from 1 layer of mat board 2 sides.

Glue the sides onto the back and the top and bottom on the marks you made.

Trace and cut out 4 shelves from 1 layer of mat board.

To help gluing the shelves in with even spacing I cut a spacer.

Cut a strip of mat board 1/2" wide.

Make a cut, not through, leave the paper uncut on the other side of the mat board.

Lay the spacer into the corner of the side.

Apply yellow wood glue to the edge of the shelf and press into place.

Hold onto your shelf and carefully remove the spacer.

Wipe of any excess glue on the spacer and place it under the shelf and glue in the next shelf.

You can change the spacing of your shelves for your needs by changing the width of the spacer.

The shelves are glued in.

To cover the raw edges of the mat board I cut narrow strips of card stock.

I just eyed this, I didn't measure.  I cut a bunch to choose from.

Glue the strips onto the edge of the shelves first.
I then glued the strips onto the vertical edges of the sides and the front.
Glue the strips onto the edges of the top and bottom last.

Finished with that.

I save packaging, you never know when you are going to need some shiny card board/card stock.
I think this is also available in the scrap booking isle, with the paper and card stock if you don't have any old packaging.

Turn this over to the wrong side and trace the mirror pattern onto it.

Cut the mirror out.

Press some painters tape onto the mirrored side.  My painters tape came off nicely without tearing the surface of  my mirror.

Press down on the edge you are going to paint against.  The first time I was timid and didn't do that and paint got under the tape.

I have about a 1/16" showing on each long side.

I painted the first coat using brush strokes toward the edge of the mirror, not from the edge towards the center of the mirror.
I thought this would insure that I would not get any paint under the tape and also seal the seam of the tape to the surface.
I painted a second coat.  After that was dry I peeled off the tape slowly and was pleased with the results.

I placed tape on the bottom of the mirror and painted a line just like the sides.

I painted the top curve free hand.

Glue the mirror onto the front of the cabinet.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!  I hope you all had a nice Christmas, too.

This is a pretty short tutorial that would make a good club project, quick and easy.

Thank you to all of you that wished me a Merry Christmas and recovery from my cold.  I am better and looking forward to another year.

I've put the "Lottie's Chair" that I made for a previous tutorial up for sale on the Etsy site.  I will try to keep some upholstered furniture there from now on.

Have fun,  Expand on it, Make it better . . . .

Just Keep Making Minis

Talk to you later, Kris

Tuesday, December 19, 2017

Merry Christmas!

I am grabbing some time to post a short note and some beautiful pictures from a follower. 

My computer is giving me problems and it looks like I will be needing a new one.  So, for some shameless advertising I will be upholstering some furniture and selling it on Etsy.  I'm dealing with a cold and the holiday so it will probably be sometime in January when I will have some pieces ready.

Now for the beautiful pictures from Erica:

Right now, the way I'm feeling this was the best Christmas present I could have gotten, for sure!!!!

Thank you all for reading my blog!!!

Wednesday, November 15, 2017

November blog is published, embroider a table topper with pulled thread work at hem.  kris

Tuesday, November 14, 2017

1 INCH SCALE EMBROIDERED TABLE TOPPER - How to embroider a 1 inch scale table topper with pulled thread work for your dollhouse.

This month I am going to give you a cross stitch pattern for a table topper.
This is one of my very first room boxes, a vignette really.
The sea shell lamp is the first tutorial I posted on the blog, I believe.

Along the bottom of the table topper I have done a little pulled thread work to fancy up the hem.

I could see more of the pulled thread work on a coverlet alternating with a little cross stitch, couldn't you?

This is my pattern for the center cross stitch, it's 1/4 of the total pattern.  The dots are blue, the crosses are green and the circles are pink.

I used 28 count evenweave fabric for the table topper.  Years ago I didn't have to use a magnifying light to embroider this count, I found that I do now.
You could substitute with another count if you want to change the size of the embroidery.

This is the dirty old original.  It's been in that box for years and look at the color change of the white fabric!

I am all set up with my thread, pattern and my fabric is in the hoop.

I used one strand of embroidery floss for this project.

I'm working on it . . .

A little more . . .

The embroidery is finished.

I counted 22 holes from the edge of the scalloped border and marked that with a basted line.

I did not think ahead, again.  I ended up with 4 threads at the end.  I left it.

Instead of counting 22 holes from the edge of the scalloped border on all 4 sides you could count 22 holes from the edge of the scalloped border at the bottom and only 21 from the border at the top.  Count 22 holes from the edge of the scalloped border at the left side and only 21 at the border on the right side.  I believe all of your bunches will be bunches of 3.

I will show you a picture later on with this mistake.

I am going to cut out 3 threads for the pulled thread work.

You can just cut 2 if you think the 3 threads make a too big space.

Use your tweezers to lift up a thread, one thread away from the basted line and cut.

The threads have been pulled.  Un-do the thread a little at a time from both ends, when the thread is long enough for you to grasp try to pull it through.  If it's hard to pull, un-do a few more threads.  Pull one thread first, it will be the hardest.  The other two threads will be easy to pull out.

I've enlarged this picture so you can see that I have cut 3 threads past the thread after the basted line.                                                                                                                                                                             

This is one side done.

Here I am at the corner.  I've cut the threads at this end and at the other corner.  The threads have been un-done a bit.

Here's the corner with the threads pulled.  Continue to pull thread out on the other two sides.

Just a note here, if you cut a thread that you didn't want to and it can happen . . . .  use tacky glue and glue the ends back together, take a deep breath and go do something else for awhile.

This is a miniature, for display, it won't be used or washed like a full size tablecloth.  The glue will work and no one will see it.

My threads are all pulled.

Apply a little tacky glue to the open corners to secure the cut threads.  Let this dry.

Use a needle and thread to sew the hem stitch.  I secured my thread on the wrong side by catching partial threads, not going through the fabric.

For the first bunch I caught the first thread with my needle and continued with the following instructions..

The next steps are pretty simple.  Your needle goes under 3 threads.

Pull the thread through.  Insert your needle under the same 3 threads.

Insert your needle under the sewing thread.

Pull the sewing thread tight.  Go on to the next bunch of 3.

A few more bunches done.

Here's the mistake, can you see the 4 threads that I ended with?

I did not think ahead, again.  I ended up with 4 threads at the end.  I left it.

Instead of counting 22 holes from the edge of the scalloped border on all 4 sides you could count 22 holes from the edge of the scalloped border at the bottom and only 21 from the border at the top.  Count 22 holes from the edge of the scalloped border at the left side and only 21 at the border on the right side.  I believe all of your bunches will be bunches of 3.

At the corner sew an "X".

Weave your sewing thread over and under the legs of the "X".

To secure your thread insert the needle into the middle of the "X" and go on to the other side.

When you run out of thread carefully hide it on the wrong side of the table topper by just catching part of the fabric, don't go through the fabric.

Count 3 threads away from the pulled thread work and apply tacky glue into the space between the third and fourth threads.  Let this dry.  Apply the tacky glue to the WRONG side of the table topper.

Can you see the threads that I was talking about ?   Use your fabric scissors to cut the fabric away after the glue has dried thoroughly.

All done.

I've replaced the old table topper with the new one.

My "table" is made from card board.  I made a tube and glued a top on the tube.

The folds in the tablecloths are glued to the card board evenly.

I hope this might interest some you.  To those that like needle work this makes a nice gift to a miniaturist that doesn't take to needlework and will be very much appreciated!

Questions and pictures send to

Happy Thanksgiving!

Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . 

Just keep making minis!

Talk to you later, Kris